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| The kiva at the pueblo. |
Chimney Rock National Monument. Chimney Rock in southwest
Colorado, between Durango and Pagosa Springs, is one of the most fascinating
and most northern of the Great Houses connected with the Chaco Culture. It was
occupied about 1000 years ago and is a significant astronomical site.
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| Pit house walls. |
We get to the ranger station just in time take a guided
group tour of the Chimney Rock Great House. The pueblo below it can be seen as
a self-guided tour but the great house itself can only be seen on a guided
tour. The tour is $12 per person and worth price for the beauty and uniqueness
of the site and the excellent program given by the docents.
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| The first view of the great house. |
When the group is assembled we caravan to the parking area
at the crest of the ridge. Our guide
gives us a tour of the pueblo, pointing out some of its unique features consisting
of a large kiva and numerous large pit houses.
From the pueblo we ascend the narrow neck of a steep-sided
ridge where the great house presides over a grand view of sky, mountains and surrounding
valleys. The ridge terminates in two prominent rock towers that align with the
great house in an easterly direction.
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| The stonework of the great house. |
At the narrow neck of the ridge there was a building that
served as a guard house allowing only important people access. It would have obscured
the great house from view until the person passed through for a first look that
enhanced the importance and power of this place.
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| The great house kiva. |
The great house was 2-stories made of exquisite stone work
in the Chaco style. It was believed to have been plastered and painted white creating
a powerful vision as people climbed the path to the sky across the neck of the ridge.
The people who were allowed to enter would have come to make astronomical
observations.
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| The kiva with the chimneys in the background. |
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| Great house rooms, another kiva and view to the west. |
The great house had solar alignments but the lunar alignment
is the most significant and magnificent. During the major lunar standstill the
moon will rise in the narrow gap between the two chimneys as seen from the
great house. The lunar standstill happens about every 18 years and last occurred
in 2004. When the alignment occurred it must have been a major event for the
early people even as it would be for us today. I wonder what kind of buzz it created
in that distant past. There are lots of people waiting to see it happen again because
it’s a rare and beautiful thing.
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| Great house rooms and a view to the north. |
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| The chimneys. |
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| Posing with the chimneys. |
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| Fishing the San Juan carving. |
Pagosa Springs. We head on down the road to Pagosa Springs for a late lunch
at a public park along the San Juan River in the middle of town. Next to the
river we see a beautiful sculpture carved from an old tree trunk of an
eagle catching a fish. It’s called, “Fishing the San Juan”. Now you know what
you can do with your old tree trunks.
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| Sunrise at Echo Amphitheater. |
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| Cliffs on the trail to the Amphitheater. |
Echo Amphitheater. Our next to last night of our travels is spent at Echo Amphitheater
in northern New Mexico. This little national forest campground has nine small primitive
sites and a picnic area at the base of colorful sandstone cliffs. We were the
only ones there and spent a wonderful, peaceful night. Since we don’t wear watches
anymore the sun becomes our time piece as we sip coffee and tea and watch the
light move down the rocks. We haven’t watched TV in seven weeks and never
missed it. It’s more rewarding and memorable to watch the morning light appearing
on the rocks and finding beauty and inspiration.
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| Echo Amphitheater. |
A trail at the parking area leads to the amphitheater. The
great dome arcs above us, filling with morning light. We speak to the rocks and
with satisfying results, they answer back.
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| VLA. |
Heading home. We head back to the Sprinter in the light of the morning and
point the Mercury for home. We’ll be there in another day, our 7-week journey
at its end.
VLA. On our way home we pass by the VLA (Very Large Array), a radio telescope in central New Mexico and not far from our home.
Already we’re talking about our travels for next year. Thanks
for reading. Hope to see you down the road.
Jackie
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